Xmas In Argentina...

Our big room, a lot of jumping out on each other 

We decided to leave our prison in the basement and book something a little more salubrious in BA.. so we checked out, then 10 minutes later checked in to Etoile Hotel, a 5 star beauty right opposite the Cemetery in Recoleta district... I know you are thinking 'cemetery' the dead end of town, but this cemetery is beautiful, more of that later !!
Our room is bigger than our whole house, massive bed, huge bathroom, enormous lounge and a balcony to boot.. overlooking the tombs !! I am exhausted just walking from one end to the other.. We booked this one as it had a pool, however it was being refurbished, so after we complained we were offered a 'bigger' room !! and free meals on Christmas day.. whoop whoop..

view from our room

We are in a great part of town, huge parks with tango dancers busking for money, guys playing squeeze boxes, lovers laying on the grass, pavement cafes  , people sitting in the dappled light of the huge strangler trees. It is wonderful just sitting and watching the world go by, people sipping Mate, out of ornate cups, this is the local tea, and they love it, you are not anyone if you have n't got a beautifully designed silver straw between your perfectly pouting lips, sucking this green tea from an engraved gourd cup....

La Boca

Eva tomb.. don't cry for me Marge and Tina .

Christmas eve has arrived and my bottom lip could not be further out !! like a spoilt child !! on the other side of the world in Argentina in a 5 star hotel with the most amazing view and I am sulking !!! or just very homesick, I can picture in my mind what you are all doing.. skyped everyone and saw kids etc, but chatting to mum really made me cry !! what a wuss !!  Poor old Brian, I must buck up so I don't ruin it for him, but he is home sick too !!

Restaurant performers

Ole'

We decided to catch the local bus to La Boca.. this is where all the buildings are painted different colours from paint left over from painting the vessels that come into dock here in the past.. there is one street that is like a rainbow, it is lined with restaurants and cafes, and all have a small wooden stages with a guitarist, and an accordion, and tango dancers.. it was amazing, we sat , ate and watched.. we then made the obligatory visit to Boca stadium, this is where Boca Juniors play ( like Man UTD ) and where Maradona used to play.. they are football crazy here, and I imagine seeing a match must be lively !! We were told to catch bus #29 home.. now this was like a sightseeing bus, it went everywhere and we saw all the sights, unfortunately it went nowhere near our hotel !! so we got a taxi !!

Boca Juniors Stadium

The hand of god !!

Tango buskers

Cemetery

The dead side of town !

Aerial view of cemetery from balcony

Gaucho on Estancia

Christmas day ... Happy Christmas everyone.. we awoke at 7am and phoned and skyped family and friends.. which was wonderful, especially all the kids.. it was a strange feeling having nothing to do and almost felt guilty.. but that didn't last long, after drinking bucks fizz in our huge bed which takes Brian 3 complete rollovers to get to me .... we got up and decided to go to the cemetery, it was packed... this is no ordinary cemetery, it is like a small town with loved ones in tombs which are like small building all elaborately decorated with angels and crosses etc.. our mission here was to find Eva Peron ( Evita) grave.. Hers is in a double vault in case she is stolen !! she is still adored by her people, and her tomb was decorated with flowers, she made sure the people got pensions and the poor could eat anywhere for 1 peso.. an incredible lady..  we wandered up and down 'streets' peering macabrely in tombs which sounds weird but they really are spectacular, we even found some Irish ones.. I told Brian I wanted one when I die, and I want it to be the biggest...  we caught a taxi in the Palermo district which is like the Kensington area of London but everything was shut.. so back to Hotel for snacks and wine in the room, sit on the balcony in the boiling heat and enjoy the view.. we went down for our free dinner and played dominoes in the evening of which I whooped Brian's ass !! went to bed both unsure of whether we had enjoyed today or not !! you forget or just take for granted how precious family is and how traditional Christmas is.. boy what we would have given to wear a stupid paper hat, eaten dry turkey and revolting Christmas pudding,  and  slip a disc playing Twister in your new slippers..
Boxing day and we are off.. to San Antonio De Areco.. out in the Pampas.. Gaucho country YYEE HHAA..

Hello Pilgrim !!

we caught the coach which was so comfortable, and gazed out at the countryside which changed from busy BA and beautiful buildings to grassland and fertile country, fields of maize and horses, but not a cow in sight... where do they keep them ??? you can't move for steak here, it's beef this and beef that, even beef curtains !!
We were dropped off at a dusty bus station, and walked the odd mile or two to our hotel followed by very friendly dogs ! it is wonderful here, the streets are all cobbled and frame a main plaza which has cafes and restaurants all around it.. we found our Estancia opposite a lovely river and park.. it has a lovely pool and loungers, but not a word of English.. Mooched into town where bikes are the transport or horses there are even places to tie them up outside the supermarket.. there are a lot of stray dogs, who are all accepted by the community, one lives in the supermarket whilst others sit under your table sleeping waiting for the odd tit bit.. they all look healthy and well fed and very happy.. this is a perfect escape from BA.

Ride em in Raw hide !!

We spent a few hours by the pool, first time since Bali and it is lovely, ate lovely steak washed down with a cheeky Malbec and went up for a siesta.. what a life !!!

Horse whisperer !!

San Antonio de Areco

Well it was until the next day, when we received the very sad news that Brian's brother Tommy had died, a lovely kind man and sweet brother to Brian.. it is impossible to know what to do, the chances of getting a flight home this time of year coupled with a Catholic funeral of burying their dead within 3 days makes it difficult.. Tommy adored cowboy films and would watch them all day long.. seemed fitting that we were in cowboy country, and had booked a horse riding trip that afternoon, so with heavy hearts, we mounted our trusty steeds and galloped off into the pampas... well when I say galloped, it was a nice trot with our gaucho, who seemed a lasso short of a saddlebag, hanging onto one rein, and sitting on a sheepskin rug.. the sun was going down and the light was magical,  we were joined by some young Americans , who seemed a little nervous at not having to sign a disclaimer, no hard hat , and not asked if any experience!! we clip clopped along riverbeds and through grassy plains, my horse kept biting the arse of the frail New Yorker graphic designers horse in front , which kept lashing out with both legs, which was unpleasant as it kept throwing dust in my eyes !! The New Yorker however was being bucked like a rodeo rider .. yeha, which I thought was hilarious,interestingly she did not.. we did not swap email addresses.. once we got back to the ranch and tied up our horses, and the feeling came back to my butt cheeks and winkie woo, we enjoyed a cool beer and watched the horses grazing, one mother and her foal became friends with my horse whispering husband , it was a wonderful moment watching these magnificent animals graze in the setting sun, and a great way to have our own private thoughts about Tommy..
We are off to Iguazu Falls tomorrow, on the border of Brazil and Paraguay, we have really enjoyed San Antonio, and both agreed we would come back.