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| Argie side. |
Happy New Year one and all.. !! and what a great start to 2012 .. boy have we been busy , so ... we hobbled to the bus station in cowboy country nursing our raw hides from our horse riding trip... and caught the bus to Buenos Aires, where we jumped in a cab to the airport and flew to Iguazu Falls... The change in scenery and temperature was significant, high humidity, and soaring heat, but then hey no shit Sherlock, we are, in the jungle ... The Iguazu falls are the widest falls in the world covering 2km, they border Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina. We were going to do Argentina first.
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| Devils throat ! |
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| Magical falls. |
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| Our boat trip.. bring it on !! |
The next morning we flagged down a bus as we didn't know where the bus stop was ! which amused the driver and arrived at Iguazu Falls, Argentine side.. It was very well organised of which Brian mentioned like a 1000 times ! we caught this little train to 'the devils throat' and after crossing a mile long metal board walk, we approached this roaring, mist spraying, maelstrom of foaming water... it was like watching a film in 3D as if the water was coming at you. it always make me feel a bit agrophobic , I feel like I just want it to stop, push a pause button then let it start again, I guess it's a control thing.. but nothing was going to stop this.. In fact a few years back you could take a rowing boat trip at the top of the falls.. Now forgive me .... You could have had Steve Redgrave, James Cracknell, Matthew Pinsett, and the other one who nobody can remember his name in , rowing that boat at the top of the falls , you would not get me in that boat... anyway , 7 German tourists did, and the rower must have been having an off day, cos the boat took a tumble over those falls.... talk about the ride of your life... I bet there was some "snell, snell" going on ...
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| Brazilian side |
Anyway I digress... The falls were just outstanding, swifts darting in and out of this curtain of water, black vultures soaring above our heads, so much water... we walked all the different circuits, which take you up close to all the falls as they fall precipitously down into a bubbling curtain of mist, very powerful, and the noise alone makes you feel like a drop in a very large river.
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| Brazil |
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| More falls |
We had booked ourselves onto the jungle explorer trip.. here we climbed aboard a huge truck which drove through the rainforest.. it was here the heavens opened , raindrops as big as pebbles were falling from the grey sky. this downpour ensued as slid into an inflatable rib... along with a gaggle of highly excited Japanese, ( is that the collective noun for Japanese, or is it a sushi of Japanese) you could not even open your eyes for rainwater and this was as we were headed for a gargantuan waterfall... OMG !! everyone had their heads buried in their lifejackets as the rain was really hurting... no Samaruis on this trip. We skimmed and ploughed our way upto the falls, and just as we were nearing the rain stopped only to be replaced by angry swirling river of water whizzing past us and a thunderous wave of water coming down on us..the boat had driven right up into the punch bowl of the falls, it was so pwerful and so wonderfully alive, the boat had all engines screaming to keep us there and nature was doing every thing it could to get us away.. it made me cry the shear power and uselessness of us and industry when faced with something great as this.. I was soon brought to my senses when a Nip was shouting "shampoo shampoo" as we all absolutely soak to the skin.. The beautiful Italian girl who got on in tight fitting jeans and lacy top with way to much make up on looked thoroughly pissed off.. We then headed to the widest part of the falls... It was like being on a Walt Disney ride but knowing the rails under the water to whisk you away at the last minute did not exist !! It was a tremendous experience.
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| Awesome .. |
As we made our way out of the park, we realised we were the last ones left !! The heavens opened again... I have never been in a rain storm like this before. like being stoned to death, not on weed, by stones.. we made it to the safety of the bus stop... took all our clothes off... rung them out , then put them back on again.. Brian didn't think it was funny when I threw his pants in the middle of the road... then bus came.. we picked up lots of other drenched tourists and made our way back to town on a very steamy bus... as we approached our stop, I asked Brian to push the bell... well I don't know what he did... but it sounded like the klaxon on a submarine, and so loud, it would not stop... we left the bus laughing at the people left for a lengthy bus ride, soaking wet, cold and with their hands over their ears... kind of made our day, and ruined theirs.. Happy New Year Suckers !!
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| so close to the colony |
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| Belly rubbing a sea lion |
The next day it was Brazil's turn... we almost were not going to go, how could it be any better than the day before... As we were waiting for the bus a taxi pulled up and said he would take us to the falls, get us through customs and get our Brazilian Visa wait for us and bring us back for £20, we thought 'hell why not' , he was fab.. The Brazilian side was a bit more Theme park like, a big open topped double decker bus takes you to the falls big colourful maps, and well meaning helpful signs everywhere, what was also more noticeable was the noise level, no not from the falls, from the Brazilians.. man alive, those guys can talk.. well shout .... we arrived... It was utterly unbelievable, a panorama of cascading falls as far as the eye could see, they are so wide you can't get them all into your sight of vision, they are beautiful, all at exactly the same height, you can picture where the rock has fallen away in a perfect line, like a sand castle collapsing in the tide line. we walked along the perfectly made path taking way too many pictures, then along a path which take you right out into the middle of the falls, it was overwhelming, all senses were alive, the noise, the smell , the feel of cool mist on hot skin, ( this is sounding like a Jackie Collins book) the sound of helicopters above like dragonflies.. the falls sounded furious, like they did not want us to be there... After a fill of water, thunderous sounds and WOW factor it was time to head back to Argie and give my camera trigger finger a well earned rest !!!
The competition between which side of the falls is a great debate, A Brazilian man was asked that question, his reply was "Argentina of course, as then you are looking at Brazil".
We spent New Year in our Hotel, at Iguazu Falls trying to process what we had seen, we drank too much wine, danced to a live Guitarist and toasted loved ones and friends at midnight with champagne... I am not a fan of New Years eve, but this one will certainly be one to remember.
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| look at all that blubber !! |
The following day, we relaxed by the pool!!!!!!!
Then 2nd Jan happy Birthday Josie my big sis... we flew to BA , it was always going to be tight with just an hour and a half to catch our flight to Patagonia... our flight left late !!! and with 30 mins to spare we Bolted through BA airport, for good news and bad news !! Our flight had been cancelled we were the only two on it !!! ( thank god we would have missed it) but they had booked us on another flight but to Trelew, an hour South.. so we had to wait till 7pm get on another flight then get a bus to Trelew with a screaming baby behind us.. got to our hotel at 12am ... with ringing in my ears.. man those kids can hit some decibels ... The mother had her head phones on .. very wise..it blocked out Brian's cursing..
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| A very overwhelmed wife xx |
Puerto Madryn is lovely, I was expecting to come to Patagonia and it be freezing cold, cliffs, howling winds.. as I threw open the curtains to our lovely hotel I was greeted with sparkling blue sea, white sandy beach and glorious azure clear blue sky.. I had asked Brian to book a hotel on the beach as if you leave your window open at night you can hear the whales blow holes in the night... so right hotel.. wrong season... it would appear the Right Whales that we had come to see had buggered off for the chillier water of Antartica.. I mean what's a few weeks between friends, It's not like they wear a watch.. how do they know what week it is ...well wherever it is I hope they have a whale of a time wailing at each other. You normally can't move for whales here.. it's like the M25 ... Biggest whale carpark in the world.. but not on 29th Dec ( dads B/day .. xx)
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| Captain Pugwash |
Peninsula Valdes is a haven for dolphins, penguins, seals, sea lions, whales ! birds.. in it's fish rich waters.. it is also very rugged and beautiful.. I wanted to swim with the sea lions, so we booked ourselves on a trip that lunchtime.. we were the only ones on the trip... so after I had been spray painted into my wetsuit !! ( I have put on a stone !! a right old lard arse ) we waddled to our boat, me in full wetsuit, balaclava, gloves, snorkel and mask ... looking good !!!!! looked like a fat beached sea lion myself !!!!! we set off weaving between, swimmers and beach balls and made our way across choppy water to the National reserve. home to a huge colony of sea lions and Orkas ! who wait and chase the sea lion pups up the beach for a tasty snack ....
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| Commerson dolphin |
excellent... Brian had decided not to come in and take photos, so myself and Jean Paul leapt in... no sooner had we got in a put our flippers on they were over.. about 20 of them swirling and swimming under us and over us, laying in our arms so we could stroke their bellies, sucking our hands and peering through our masks with their big eyes and whiskers.. some were hanging off my flippers, it was an amazing 40 minutes, of playing with nature.. they come to you, no theme park or cruel aquarium, it was so much fun.. not the adrenaline emotional swim with the dolphins, more playful and intimate.. I never dreamt I would have a wild sea lion laying in my arms stroking it's belly !!! amazing..
That night everyone was out on the prom sipping Mate and pushing kids on scooters, the pier was having a firework display !! it was not like an Olympic opening ceremony.. it felt more like being on Port Stanley under a mortar attack, but nevertheless.. colourful !!
God are you not bored yet !! nearly finished !!!
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| Another one ! |
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| Drunken, clumsy, awkward on feet !! |
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| Penguins on the moon |
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| Can anyone see a ppppp penguin ? |
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| The flightless male makes his way back to his nest to feed his chick ! |
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| Fluffy chick 4 weeks old |
The following day we were off dolphin and penguin watching... you never tire of seeing these wonderful animals... and it would appear we will pay anything for it as well !!! this time we taken in a very powerful rib to see the Commerson dolphins, they are quite small, black with a large wide band of white and a rounded dorsal fin, they look like a small Orka !!!! as soon as we left the harbour and opened up the engines they were there.. and they love it.. surfing down waves our wake had made,, riding the bow wave, leaping through breakers.. the faster we went, the more playful they became.. it was so exhilarating.. to calm down we had another bus ride one and a half hours furthe South to Ponto Tombo.. This is where the Magellanic penguins have made their home.. all half a million of them... it was like penguin city.. they build their nests under scrubby bush in the sand and return every year, to meet the same mate and lay two eggs !! seems like an awful lot of bother, there really is not much to do out here.. all you could see was these awkward looking little guys either protecting their nests, sunbathing with their huge fluffy chick next to them or heading out to sea to fish, or heading back with a belly full of dinner for their chick.. there are so many of them at certain points the reserve have made bridges for pedestrians to go over the walking penguins.. crazy.. when we finally got to the beach after taking too many photos.. the shoreline looked like an oil spillage, the whole beach was covered in clumsy drunk looking penguins..As we made our way back, we saw Llamas and ostriches living amongst the penguins. It was an amazing trip.. From here we made our way on a long mile after mile of gravel road, with nothing to see as far as the eye could see but low thorny scabby bush.. very hostile and very very hot.. we eventually arrived at a town called Gaiman .. "so frigging what " I hear you cry ... well you wouldn't say that if you were Welsh " now would you.. tidy like isn't it " A welsh colonists town. The idealists left Wales in 1860 in a bid to escape cultural oppression, as parliament sought to silence Gaelic tongues, quash Gaelic customs and suppress religious expression ... ( seemed like a bloody long way to come, should have just moved to Ireland ... oh .. hmm anyway ) so hey why not pack up those leeks and daffodils and head to the hinterland of Patagonia.. why don't ya !!they were duped.. inhospitable land, no buildings or building material.. they lived in shelters they had built in the ground, but they have made it great.. Gaiman is a tiny bastion of Welshness .. weeping willows and Sycamores drape over rivers.. Welsh is still taught in schools here( that will be useful. is isn't it ?)
tea rooms galore.. road signs are Thomas, Evans and Jones ..Welsh dragon flags flutter from Welsh looking buildings.. Princess Diana even came here had a cream tea, and her cup remains safely stashed behind a glass Welsh dresser - unwashed !!!
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| It is Welsh though .. isn't it.. |
A wonderful day and another great start to what is going to be a great year.. sorry this one has been so long... so much to write and say, off on a long coach journey tomorrow to sit watch this wonderful country go by and try, just try to process what we have seen and done in not only the past 2 weeks but the past 6 months...
